There’s something special about roses in late spring. The sun’s warming up, gardens are bursting with life, and it’s a perfect time to get new roses into the ground.
Whether you’re dreaming of blooms for your front yard or filling a few pots on the patio, planting roses in May (or early June) gives them just enough time to settle in before the summer heat hits. Let’s get ready to grow roses that stop neighbors in their tracks!
Rose Classifications
Roses aren’t one-size-fits-all. They come in a variety of types, each with its own personality. Some are show-stoppers in a vase, while others are perfect for filling out a garden bed or climbing a trellis.
Knowing which type of rose to plant will help you get the results you want. Here’s a simple breakdown of the most common types.
Hybrid Tea Roses
These are the classic long-stemmed roses you see in floral arrangements. Each stem grows a single bloom, which makes them great for cutting.
They’re known for big, beautiful flowers and strong fragrance, but they do need a bit of babying (meaning regular feeding, pruning, and disease watch).
- Best for cut flowers or formal rose gardens.
- Try if you like traditional roses with strong scents.
Floribunda Roses
Think of floribundas as the social butterflies of the rose world. They bloom in clusters and put on a colorful, long-lasting show.
They’re a bit more compact than hybrid teas and generally easier to care for.
- Best for flower beds, borders, and busy garden corners.
- Try if you want non-stop color with less fuss.
Grandiflora Roses
These are like the best of both worlds. They’re tall like hybrid teas but bloom in clusters like floribundas.
They’re great for adding height and structure to your garden.
- Best for mixed flower beds and background planting.
- Try if you love tall plants with dramatic blooms.
Climbing Roses
Got a fence, trellis, or arbor? A climbing rose will turn it into a blooming work of art.
These roses send out long canes that need a little help being trained, but once they’re established, they add vertical interest and charm.
- Best for fences, arches, and pergolas.
- Try if you want something that grows up instead of out.
Rambling Roses
Rambling roses are often confused with climbers, but they’re different. These wild and vigorous growers send out long, flexible canes that produce tons of small flowers in huge clusters.
They usually bloom once a season, but when they do – wow.
- Best for covering large spaces, old fences, or garden sheds.
- Try if you love an untamed, cottage-garden look.
Miniature Roses
Small but mighty, these little guys pack all the beauty of a full-sized rose into a compact plant.
They’re great for containers, small gardens, or even as indoor plants (with enough sunlight).
- Best for containers, balconies, and small spaces.
- Try if you love tiny blooms with big impact.
Groundcover Roses
These low-growing roses are perfect for covering wide areas. They spread outward instead of upward and are usually bred for disease resistance and constant blooming.
If you want something beautiful and hardworking, this is your rose.
- Best for slopes, pathways, and filling in bare spots.
- Try if you need low-effort coverage with lots of color.
Shrub Roses
These are the tough guys. Shrub roses are known for their hardiness, disease resistance, and big, bushy growth. Some are even self-cleaning, which means less deadheading.
Many newer varieties bloom repeatedly from spring through fall.
- Best for low-maintenance landscapes and larger spaces.
- Try if you need a rose that handles kids, pets, and weather.
Old Garden Roses
These are the heirlooms of the rose world. They consist of varieties that existed before 1867!
They’re known for their strong scent, full blooms, and natural resistance to disease. While most bloom only once a year, the display is unforgettable.
- Best for traditional gardens and vintage vibes.
- Try if you want historical charm and powerful fragrance.
How to Plant Roses in Late Spring
While many folks plant in early spring, late spring planting (May to early June) can be just as successful if you follow a few easy steps.
Whether you’re starting with bare-root roses or ones from containers, the key is giving your roses the right start to handle the summer heat ahead.
Start with the Right Spot
Roses love the sun. Choose a location with at least 6 hours of daily direct sunlight. More is even better.
Good air circulation is also important since it helps prevent diseases, and well-draining soil is a must. Roses don’t like “wet feet,” so skip spots where water tends to pool after a rain.
Pro tip: Avoid planting too close to walls or fences that trap heat or block airflow. Give your rose room to grow and breathe.
Prep Your Soil
When preparing your planting hole, make it wide and deep enough to allow roots to spread. A good rule of thumb is about 18 inches across and 18 inches deep.
And healthy soil = happy roses. So here’s what to mix into the hole for a strong start:
- Planting mix: This boosts drainage and adds organic matter. It’s especially helpful if your native soil is heavy clay or sandy.
- Compost: Mix in well-aged compost to improve nutrients and texture.
- Fertilizer: This gives your rose a nutrient boost right from the start. Look for a balanced formula with added calcium and magnesium.
Pro tip: Roses prefer slightly acidic soil – ideally between 6.0 and 6.5. Not sure? A quick soil test kit can help you get in the zone.
Plant Your Roses
- Gently remove the rose from its pot. Be careful not to break the roots.
- Loosen the root ball if the roots are circling the edges.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, filling in with your soil mix.
- Water thoroughly to help the soil settle.
- Mulch around the base to hold moisture and keep roots cool, but don’t pile it against the stem.
After-Planting Rose Care
The weeks after planting are important. Roses are building their root systems, adjusting to their new home, and preparing to bloom. A little care now makes a big difference later.
Water
Newly planted roses need regular watering to get established, especially in May/June when temps are climbing.
- Water deeply, not just a light sprinkle. Aim for about 1–2 inches per week, depending on the weather and your soil.
- Check the soil with your finger. If it’s dry 2–3 inches down, it’s time to water.
- Morning is best. Watering early in the day helps prevent disease and gives plants time to dry off before night.
Watch out for overwatering!
If the leaves start yellowing or look limp and mushy, the soil may be staying too wet. Roses don’t like soggy roots, so make sure your soil drains well, and you’re not watering too often.
Read 12 Water-Saving Tips for Your Garden and Yard for more help with watering.
Mulch
Mulch is your new best friend. It helps roses retain moisture, keeps weeds out, and protects roots from temperature swings.
Good options are shredded bark, wood chips, or even compost.
- Spread 2–3 inches of mulch around the base of the plant.
- Keep it a few inches away from the stem to prevent rot.
Fertilizer
You already gave your roses a boost at planting time, but they’ll need a little more support as they grow.
- About 4–6 weeks after planting, feed your roses again using fertilizer.
- Look for a fertilizer with a balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (like 4-6-4 or similar).
- Pro tip: Water your roses before and after applying fertilizer to avoid burning the roots.
Repeat feedings every 4–6 weeks during the growing season, but stop around late summer so plants can slow down and prepare for dormancy in the fall.
Read Caring for Dormant Roses to learn about your roses in the winter.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even seasoned gardeners slip up sometimes. Here’s what to watch for:
- Planting too deep or too shallow – The base of the plant (where the stems meet the roots) should be just at soil level.
- Letting weeds move in – They steal nutrients and moisture. Keep your mulch fresh and pull weeds early.
- Forgetting to water in heat waves – Young roses dry out fast. Set a reminder if you need to!
- Over-fertilizing – More isn’t better. Too much fertilizer will stress the plant and encourage weak, leggy growth.
Tips and Tricks for Beautiful Blooms
A few smart habits (and a couple of old garden tricks) will help your roses look their best all season long.
Deadheading: Snip for More Flowers
Deadheading simply means removing old or fading flowers so your plant can use its energy to make new ones instead of forming seeds.
- How often? Once a week is a good rhythm during the blooming season.
- Where to cut: Snip the spent bloom just above a set of 5 healthy leaves on the stem. That’s where the next strong bloom will grow.
- Use clean pruners to avoid spreading disease. Wipe the blades with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution between plants – or even between cuts if you’re dealing with a sick one. While you’re at it, give your plant a quick once-over for pests or other issues.
Read Pruning Prowess, Grateful Dead-Heading, and Pruning Roses for more on deadheading.
Pest Prevention: Stay Ahead of the Critters
A healthy rose is the best defense against bugs and fungus, but a few extras can keep trouble at bay.
- Inspect weekly for signs of aphids, spider mites, and black spot. Early detection is key.
- Companion plants like garlic, chives, marigolds, and lavender help repel pests naturally (and add charm to your rose bed).
- Use reliable pest and fungal control products like Bonide. Bonide offers organic and conventional options, including easy-to-use ready-to-spray formulas.
Adding Epson Salt and Coffee Grounds: Garden Myths and Maybes
You’ve probably heard about adding Epsom salts or coffee grounds to roses. So do they work?
Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
- Magnesium helps with chlorophyll production and promotes stronger growth and brighter blooms.
- Use sparingly. Apply about 1 tablespoon mixed into the soil when planting, or dissolve in water once a month during the growing season.
Coffee grounds
- These add nitrogen, but they’re very acidic when fresh.
- Only use composted coffee grounds and mix them into the soil, not directly on top.
- Too much can throw off soil pH or attract pests, so don’t go overboard.
Verdict: These can help in small amounts but are not miracle fixes. For the best results, stick with a solid fertilizer routine.
Diagnosing and Treating Common Rose Diseases
Even the healthiest roses run into trouble sometimes. The good news? Most rose diseases are treatable if you catch them early.
Symptoms to Watch For
Here are some of the most common rose diseases and how to spot them.
Black Spot
- What it looks like: Round black or dark purple spots with yellowing around the edges of the leaves.
- Where it shows up: It usually starts on lower leaves and moves up.
- What to do: Remove infected leaves and clean up any fallen debris. Treat with a fungicide like Bonide Fung-onil or Bonide Rose Rx.
Bonide, Fung-onil Fungicide Concentrate, 16 oz
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Powdery Mildew
- What it looks like: A white, dusty coating on leaves, buds, or stems – like someone sprinkled flour on your plant.
- Where it shows up: New growth is often the first to be affected.
- What to do: Improve airflow, avoid overhead watering, and spray with a sulfur-based or neem oil product.
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Rust
- What it looks like: Tiny orange or rust-colored spots on the undersides of leaves.
- Where it shows up: Undersides of lower leaves first, then spreading.
- What to do: Remove infected leaves and apply a fungicide. Keep leaves dry and avoid overcrowding plants.
Rose Rosette Disease
- What it looks like: Rapid, strange growth – twisted stems, excessive thorns, and witches’-broom-like clusters.
- Where it shows up: Anywhere on the plant.
- What to do: Sadly, there’s no cure. This virus is spread by mites and can affect nearby roses. The best action is to remove the infected plant (roots and all) and put it in the trash. Do not compost it.
Treat or Remove?
- Treat if the disease is minor and caught early, like a few spots of mildew or rust.
- Remove if the plant is severely infected, does not respond to treatment, or shows signs of rose rosette disease. Always dispose of removed plants in the trash – not the compost pile!
Chemical and Organic Remedies
Roses respond well to regular care and preventative treatments. You don’t need to douse them with chemicals. Just be consistent and smart about what you use.
- Bonide Fung-onil – A go-to for black spot, mildew, and rust. Use as a foliar spray during damp or humid stretches.
- Bonide Rose Rx – Combines insecticide, miticide, and fungicide in one. Great for early-stage issues or as a preventative.
- Bonide Cooper Fungicide – An effective, organic-approved option for controlling a wide range of fungal diseases
- Neem Oil – Organic option that helps with both pests and fungal problems.
- Pruning – Trimming out infected stems and improving airflow is as important as spraying.
Bonide, Ready-to-Use Fung-onil Fungicide, 29 oz
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Pro tip: Always read the label and spray early in the day or late in the evening to avoid harming pollinators and to prevent leaf burn.
From Planting to Blooming
For even more rose-growing tips, download our free Wilco Rose Care Guide. It’s packed with helpful advice to keep your roses blooming beautifully.
Happy planting!
